Cultural elements such as cooking and dancing, and even learning a language is not equal to being Creole.
Anyone can make a gumbo, and the cooking schools of New Orleans, run by Yankee cultural ex-patriots, or “cultural carpetbaggers,” as I refer to them, prove it; even if their “gumbos” might have unfamiliar tastes or strange ingredients added to the brew, unknown to bona fide Louisiana Creoles!
They try and try again; while others, such as Chef John Folse, even do routine “reconnaissance flights” to Leah Chase’s kitchen in an apparent gesture of “admiration and friendly support” (with an eye on her gumbo and chicken!) and then, to the Country Creole/Cajun outposts to “learn” (we won’t say steal) their “real thang” jambalaya recipes!
But, they are doing so-without the natural “savoir faire” or soulful life experience & knowledge that makes for that special flavor and spice which is very evidently-unknowable– and perhaps, unteachable to cultural forgers, for no other reason than the fact of a natural, lifelong indigenous cultural formation and palate which is a natural and long-cultivated gift to our heirs.
Learning the language of any people or cultural group is doable.
But, knowing the language from oral transmission of a parent or older relative carries a cultural formation and transformation which is the result of the transmission of ideas, memories and shared experiences which determine uses, applications and know-how unknown to imported outsiders.
A lifelong acculturation in Louisiana, among Creoles who share a common tongue, a unique historical genealogy, spiritual and social traditions-oral and documented-ad saturated into a peculiar cultural environment which constantly and subtly advertises and produces a unique pantry of spices, techniques and food resources endows her cooking children w/ more than knowledge of recipes.
The emotions and lifestyle convey a vicarious, if no longer direct experience, known and lived among our families, whose Catholic culture, for example, dictated both a calendar of festival and sacred observances complete with a menu conformed to this social, spiritual and cultural reality.
This culture and it’s adaptation to and assimilations of the successive historical cultures and peoples-who together, ultimately, shaped it into its familiar form, and even effected the complexion of our people, who like roux, go from dark to light, to white, is a living dynamic.
There exists also a natural palate familiar to all Creoles who also align their common base of cultural experience and knowledge of herbs, spices and techniques to this “barometer” of how much, how little and when to or not to, do something; in cooking or in regard to personal comportment!
Many festival enthusiasts who follow Jazz Fest to Lafayette’s Festival International have learned to dance, maybe even sing; they love to drink and eat our food, too.
Some, more frequently, in the “Cajun Country” of Lafayette’s regional cultural air space, even identify and prophecy as “Cajuns.”
They religiously assemble at bars which sit in the shadows of the University of Lafayette’s oaks, drinking and eating boudin and cracklings, bellowing and living for Mardi Gras in Mamou!
That routine is the general foundation of their “Cajun cultural identity” sprinkled with an almost-religious recitation of the “Grand Dérangement” of the poor Acadians, whose power to dominate and change the previously Creole world, remains an unquestionable “mystery” -to them. Yet, few actually own or share any Acadian historical or genealogical roots.
And, worst, this group isn’t even aware of the fact that nothing promoted as “Cajun” has any traceable Acadian cultural elements to it; neither to Louisiana’s language dialects, her gumbo and other culinary traditions; and nor to her music tradition, once known as “French music” among true Acadian and Louisiana French Creoles, alike!
I may relate to Chinese culture, learn it’s several dialects, and take all cooking classes I desire, and collect its art and cookbooks, and faithfully follow its calendar of social-cultural traditions down to the fortune cookie’s advice!
But, I would never presume to say that this obsession (or appreciation) makes me Chinese; or worst, that I am an “expert” qualified to write and teach-unqualifiedly-about their culture, without solidly grounding my work upon their expert experience, views and interviews (as does Chef John Folse?) as the American writer-experts routinely do about us; as they foolishly rely upon the unhistorical, politically- and commercially-scripted “Cajun” versus “Creole” stereotypes presented.
Education and schools are good, in themselves, for obvious reasons, but when it comes to cooking true Louisiana Creole food, one must have lived the cultural experiences and formation requisite to appropriately garnishing our authentic cuisine and also understanding it’s timing.
This fact is well-exhibited in popularity of Leah Chase’s cooking, and once, at the now-closed Olivier’s of New Orleans, Galatoire’s and at old Mother’s in New Orleans. It was and is normal protocol in any old Creole cook’s kitchen, too.
In Lafayette, Café Vermilionville, Creole Lunch House and at the cafe’ at Vermilionville (the museum village); and of course, at John LaFleur’s Louisiana Country Creole Guesthouse & Kitchen, “the real thang” is still here.
Should you happen to be in Opelousas, go to the Palace Cafe’ near the St Landry Parish courthouse for their Sunday buffet prepared by the Queen of Creole cuisine, Chef Lucinda Rideau. She is a descendant of both the Alabama Colonial French, Choctaw Creole/Métis and African heritage and meets all of the “standards” I’ve mentioned above; and her cuisine will quickly convince you, too! See her pic below.
And, frankly, if the tourist-gourmand really wants “the best,” get an invitation to your boyfriend’s or girlfriend’s grandma’s house for lunch or supper, cher!
For Creoles, there is a spiritual-cultural dimension to each meal.
We genuine Creoles live our culture and that is the most unidentifiable and closely-guarded “secret ingredient” to all of our meals.
And, contemporary American cooking schools can’t teach that.
Copyright © 2016 John Lafleur II